When a good idea is just a bad plan.

It's a fairly safe bet that the day you have a good idea of what you want to wear, your plan will be scuppered before you start.  What I mean by this is you have an event to go to and you decide on the dress you want to wear, you don't take into account the weather or any of the other million variables that may effect your choice on the day.  You give yourself no get out clause and as a result you may end up feeling horrible because you didn't give yourself the flexibility to change your mind, you may feel fabulous and have no idea what I'm referring to, at which point I can only say, how very Zen of you.

Please allow me to introduce you to my event get out of jail free kit, also known amongst friends as the 'Tantrum Reducer'.  How I feel about an outfit and the way I look in it will be greatly influenced by my mood and whether the nice man in the coffee place has chosen to refer to me as Sir that morning (there was no coming back from that one), but I have a few items up my sleeve that make any problem if not disappear at least drop off the fore front of my thoughts.  The first thing is knowing in advance that you have a jacket or wrap that goes with your outfit, so if the weather turns on you, which it is likely to do in this country you have an option, trust me blue skin really is just for Avatars!  It sounds obvious but you would be amazed how often people ignore the fact we live in the UK and it is often wet and cold.  In my tantrum reducer kit I also keep tights, Victoria's Secret suck you in and lift you up pants( personally I think they are the best available but don't let me be the one to stand in front of your preference), nail varnish, tit tape and a safety pin. In a pinch, I find these things can fix most issues at least on a short term basis, not to mention the fact the last 3 will fit in any clutch bag so you can fix things on the move/in the bathroom of the event you are going to.

There is nothing worse than deciding at the last minute that the outfit you are wearing is not appropriate or that you just feel wrong in it but as long as you don't panic, changing your mind is not a problem.  The problem comes, when you are standing in front of your wardrobe, in your underwear, wearing 2 different shoes and holding a dress in each hand; at that point you'll make more progress if you go and make yourself a cup of tea and come back to the problem in 10minutes.  So you've got a cup of tea, what is your instinct?  Put that on, and go.  You have probably just made the best possible choice for you and being comfortable is 3/4 of the way to looking fantastic.

The Leather Jacket, any where.

Be it Biker or Blazer there is something eminently cool about throwing a leather jacket over any outfit to finish a look and with advancements in dying techniques the days of limiting yourself to black or brown are far behind us all.  Whatever your budget fabrics like leather or suede, mean you are making a considerable purchase that should be given a bit more consideration than, "See it, Want it, Buy it" but the right choice will become a timeless classic that will age with you and evolve with your style.  The leather jacket should never be a one season wonder and as a result I never recommend buying the first one you see.

A leather jacket can be used to fundamentally change the effect of an outfit, making dresses more casual and appropriate for day wear and depending on shape they can be used as an alternative suit jacket, a bolder choice for office wear but styled in the right way they are a very valid and contemporary work look.  Personally I believe the leather jacket is a nice short cut to the perfect "Smart casual" outfit.  So what does the perfect leather jacket look like?  One universal truth is that leather stretches and as a result you will enjoy your jacket more if you choose a size that is correct, by allowing the jacket to stretch around you it will become unique to you, fitting you better and more comfortably.

Biker:  By going for a shorter length you are allowing the jacket to high light your waist rather than adding bulk to it, choosing a lighter colour will immediately make the look more contemporary and make the jacket more versatile through out the seasons.  When considering levels of embellishment, I can advise but not define, it's up to you but I would say that in general the more embellished any item is the quicker you will get bored of it.

Blazer:  A leather blazer is immediately a smarter and more fitted look, whether it is classic or asymmetric in style, in this case the back is as important as the front, pay particular attention to the fit under the arms and across the shoulders ensuring the jacket is properly tailored to your waist and the shoulders are not too large.  It is important to remember that altering leather is possible but restrictively expensive.

• When making a purchase like this try the item on with a few different styles of outfit, if possible to see if it will fit with the types of looks you regularly put together.  
• Try the size smaller to see the effect it has on the way the jacket fits your body.
• Don't be afraid to ask questions about protecting the skin, so that you know you are using the best possible products on that type of leather or suede.
• It's a big purchase, so feel no guilt about walking away and having a think, if it is gone when you come back fate is just letting you know there is a better jacket out there for you.

Stripes and animal print have a place, in your wardrobe

These are 2 of fashions main stay patterns, they return again and again almost without fail if you want them you'll find them on a catwalk somewhere every season.  However they are both given such a terribly bad reputation.  People, well women, who wear Animal Print are supposed to be a little bit raw and lacking in style, "Fit for barmaids and brothels", whilst stripes lack elegance and are viewed as a bit of a fashion cop out, the easy choice, you get full marks because you only did half the paper.  I categorically disagree with both these opinions so allow me to argue in the defence of both.

I know a lot of individuals, and I won't name names but you know who you are, that repeat like a mantra, "Stripes aren't flattering" .  Now for me that is just throwing the baby out with the bath water, yes some stripes will look hideous but then we could say that about everything and unless you have plans to join a nudist colony, that leaves you with a bit of a conundrum.  In my personal experience alone, I've seen stripes that make my eyes hurt and stripes that make me look like a fairly irritated bumble bee and yet I own stripes that accentuate my waist and draw the eye to the pattern and away from my less attractive body parts.  I also have a particularly delicious pair of striped shoes that ensure any outfit I wear with them is raised a cut above.

As you can see from the images when it comes to Animal Print things have moved on from Bette Lynch in the Rovers Return, by choosing softer fabrics and lighter washes the look becomes softer and easier to wear.  However it is the fact that you have the option to go all out Femme Fatale that draws me back to this style.  For me Animal Print is a little bit like Deep Red Lipstick wearing it is a statement of your own feminine power it's not about impressing or attracting, it's about drawing confidence from the knowledge that you have chosen to make people look at you.

The point is that when you make a decision against something all you are doing is waiting to be proved wrong, this Season is all about pattern and flair (I doubt very much this is the last time you'll here those words from me) so if some of the styles you are seeing make you uncomfortable, why not seek safety in an old friend?  You know it'll be around for a while at least.

The Art of Illusion

Wouldn't it be nice if we all had perfect figures, if you woke up every morning and could put on a bin liner and look like Heidi Klum? (Feel free to insert your own preferred body image)  For those of us who don't live that particular dream, there are clothes out there that can do half the work for you.

There is no reason to spend all night tweaking and adjusting your posture so that any photo will be taken from exactly the right angle, when the dress is really doing the work for you.  I agree Kate Winslet is not the best example, as she already owns a phenomenal figure but you can't help but notice that this Stella McCartney dress adds a certain something to the overall effect.  That something being a Waspish Waist and legs that look like they need to be measured in meters.  The great news is that when the High Street see a good idea they copy it and as a result dresses like this are now available in all price ranges.

The Shift dress which has forever been a work wardrobe staple now has a little more to offer and something a lot more interesting to say.  They are easy to dress up or down so that you have a multi function item that can take you where you want to go.  The second advantage is the majority of these dresses come in a heavy weight jersey or scuba fabric, which encourages correct posture and feels like the 'miracle pants' are incorporated, not to mention the fact they barely if ever crease.

This is the easiest and clearest example of illusion dressing but whatever your personal style, there is a method by which you can create the perfect illusion and I promise it does not involve mechanical devises or mirrors of any kind.  I'm not Dynamo the Magician but it is possible to make everything you dislike about yourself disappear.

Finding not shopping

When it comes to finding a new style most people have visions of credit card statements that look not entirely dissimilar to phone numbers, it can be terrifying.  Which is why I think most people put it off and hope it will happen magically if they watch enough TV programs about Fashion Fixing and turning from Plain Jane to Princess, searching for the slice of inspiration that will take them from Humdrum to Style queen, the envy of all those they meet.  I think the truth is somewhere in the middle.

It is difficult and expensive to buy an entirely new wardrobe, especially if you want to feel connected to it.  I've known people in the past who spent a fortune and then kept nearly all the clothes, 'For Best' as they didn't associate the new clothes and style with themselves.  Instead of using their clothes as an interchangeable Capsule wardrobe they kept to, maybe 10 tried and tested outfits, cutting their options to the bare minimum.  Conversely I have clients who can change their entire wardrobe by the purchase of one correctly chosen piece and some new accessories.  By being prepared to see the potential of the clothes you already own your options become limitless.

Sometimes it helps to have new eyes look at your clothes as they will not be restrained by the things you know to be true.  So before you go shopping next time take a moment to look at your wardrobe and see if you can't rediscover an old gem.  Saving you money and time!

Bad Taste is better than no taste.

This season has many facets some good, some not to my taste.  However, the question are they in bad taste is mute because although they are not my particular fashion style does not make them wrong for someone else.  The really sticky area comes when you bemoan someone's bad taste, when they adopt a new fashion early and then six months later hope no one minds that you are strolling out in a remarkably similar outfit, now that you've been told by enough magazines that it is Fashionable.  A similar thing happened to me when I first saw skinny jeans, I recognised their merit for my friends and customers but they just weren't ever going to be for me.  WRONG!!  Yes it helped that I lost some size and I never wear them as anything other than an accessory, I'm not built for the spray on jeans, short top look (but then so few people over the age of 15 are).  Although I do wear them and quite a lot, with the knee high trend of last season, it was verging on off duty uniform, because they are just so comfy when you get the right ones and lets be honest a short trip to stylish without having to think too hard!  I love not having to think too hard, it makes my head hurt.

This season, I've been suffering with a number of raised eyebrows from clients as I introduce them to the large prints and bright colours that are the backbone of SS12 and it's true thanks to my sparkling personality and persuasive nature things have gone my way but I'd rather people just decided to leave a few of their preconceptions at the door.  If the Clash Trend taught us nothing it should be that the rules have changed, all those old adages, like "Pink and green, should never be seen" are gone.  Fashion, fabric and women have moved on.  So on the subject of taste the only difference between good and bad is preference and mine will never matter more than yours.

By making  a choice you are showing that you care enough to try, rather than just hoping no-one notices you are still wearing the same clothes you have always worn, just possibly a newer version of the same.  The problem with finding a style and sticking to it religiously is that you evolve and your clothes must too, otherwise your style just becomes a rut that you can't escape from.

Smart Casual means...

Whilst the Foster's advert is amusing, it is not the most helpful point of reference, so I thought it might be worth clarifying a few possibilities, that fit with in the parameters of this term.  Let's be honest you could drive a bus through it.  Every single person you speak to has a vague understanding of what this means but would be hard pressed to be sure of their choice when picking an outfit.

I like the definition that states, it is a balance of comfortable and put together, a complete look that offers the wearer a sense of self confidence, whilst maintaining  a sense of their personal style.  This is why every single person feels that the parameters are different, because ideally smart casual should represent a bit of who you are and so will be different.  The outfit that I wear for Smart Casual, might make the next person look completely over dressed.  Conversely Business Casual must always represent your business or professional self, effectively boys remove your tie and girls lower your heals, it's the simplest rule.

Smart Casual is the one area where women are seriously in luck, you always have the option to over think every detail for an hour then throw on a dress, I recommend a jersey fabric wrap as its a good come what may style, you can be more expressive with the accessories you choose, opting for larger pieces.  Alternatively, if you are feeling a little more adventurous keep the fabrics light, trousers should be worn with opulent looser items in order to give a sense of comfort and ease.

When it comes to you men, my best advice is think of it as a game of 2 halves.  Your best defence against the raised eyebrows of your detractors is a well formatted look, for example jeans and a t shirt need brogues and a suit jacket.  If you decide to follow the trouser route, I would opt for layers on your top half in this respect colour becomes very much your friend, and a more comfortable shoe.  Shoes should never be heavy in appearance as this will take you too far into the casual realm.

Now if you consider nothing else to be true please let me assure you if you choose to wear jeans they must be the best possible fit.  They can not be frayed, they can not be baggy and they absolutely can not be a light wash.

 Remember there is no such thing as over dressed just under confident.

Paisley?

As Elle Woods states in Legally Blonde "no one looks good in Paisley" and yet as is so often true, other people know better.  I love Paisley, I love it on my soft furnishings, even for a sofa as it calls to mind the notion of a comfortably faded library chair, or the Ascot tie of a country gentleman.  It has not for a very long time evoked any thoughts of high end Fashion, so yes it was time it had a recall from the history books and again felt the heat of the Spotlight (I feel somewhat misty eyed at the thought.)

The essential question becomes how do you wear it without inspiring feelings of soft furnishings from the uninitiated and uninspired?  The reality is that this season is all about big and bold prints, be they nautical, globally inspired or from the tea room of Paisley.  The trick is to find one in the correct proportion to you.  Remembering that proportions can be changed according to style, colour and fabrication.  My second tip is too avoid the expected, when styling your item try to think outside the box, turn your look into a multi-faceted jewel with many different components in order to achieve a look you are comfortable with and that will attract positive attention from others.

Try to avoid heavy fabrics, which aren't much fun for summer anyway, stick to chiffon in lighter colours, so the Paisley becomes part of the movement of the garment rather than the stand out style feature.  Obviously if you are braver than me you can go the whole hog and nothing says trend allegiance (or fashion victim) quite like Paisley trousers.

You can't see, if you don't look.

So today I was bemoaning to my trainer that I am getting bigger than I am happy with and he asked a few "nudgey questions" much like I do with my clients to make me look at the whole picture, rather than the snap shot I was considering.  Suddenly I was able to see, what I needed to change and where I'd gone somewhat off piste.  As I was doing better than I had been, I failed to notice I wasn't doing my best.

But this is true of so much more than coffee versus water and vegetables versus fruit.  Look at your wardrobe, how much of it actually gives you pleasure and how much of it do you wear, so you won't get arrested?  Try a little exercise, go to your wardrobe and without taking anything else into account look at it.

• If somebody offered it to you, would you buy every piece again?
• Would somebody else be able to tell what kind of person you are from your clothes?
• Does it excite you?
• If you have a terrifying event to go to, do you have an outfit you can trust?
• Do you want to be the person you see in your clothes?

It is not the easiest process to do on your own but if the answer leads you to wishing things were different, keep up that momentum and change something.

Next time you go shopping, look.  Look in shops you would probably normally avoid, walk past the items you have and try something new.  Be willing to ask for help and advice.  I promise the less of a mission you make it the more successful it will be.

Instead of ignoring the problem and hoping it'll go away deal with it now, then its done and you can think about something else - like where the good shoes are.

Nautical goes under the sea

I would call this a bridge trend in regards to the fact we see elements of the other trends in all these looks and the over all effect causes the idea rather than things being as clear cut as usual.  When magazines and stylists talk about Nautical, invariably your head runs straight towards stripes in red, white and blue, with the occasional rope trim (YAWN).  Don't get me wrong, this is a summer staple it's easy to wear and the maintenance of the look is fairly minimal.

This trend, this season is about the shape and fabric, evoking the sense of the sea without being constricted by specifics.  I would also predict that this is one of the trends that will be most duplicated on the high street through the coming months as there is so much mileage in it and so many ways to reinterpret the inspiration offered on the catwalks.  My only piece of specific advice is that if you have decided that a big print is going to be your purchase, you have to find a way to make it original rather than recognisable, particularly if you are wearing an item from the High street.  The last thing you want when you are wearing a fabulous outfit is to metaphorically leave the tags on.  So how do you achieve this?  How do you disguise a piece that 1000s of other women could be wearing all over the country.  Well you can either do a Gok Wan and completely remake the dress, whilst adding £100 worth of bedazzling to it (which makes it more expensive than the original he is copying, sorry different rant) or you can look at what is in your wardrobe.

Don't be afraid to change the line of the dress with a belt, safety pin or some elastic bands, it isn't a forever change so you can constantly alter the silhouette giving you loads of scope to "re-wear" an item.  Yes it takes some experimenting and sometimes a good friend to make safety pins and elastic bands helpful but trust me when you get it right, smug won't begin to explain the feeling.  If you don't have the time energy or inclination to alter, try and make your purchases in small boutiques with unknown designers.

Please if you do nothing else, when you buy sequins check how they are attached as you want them decorating you not the floor.

Tailored to fit

Here's a newsflash for you, people are all different shapes and sizes.  I know radical, isn't it.   Designers do not design using real people, they use tailors dummies and patterns so how do these 2 ideals converge into well presented happy people?  There is no longer any such thing as a standard size, I could buy 20 different size 14s and not one of them would be the same.  On the same level I could dress 20 different people and no 2 of those would be the same either, my service changes for every single one of my clients depending on so many factors, adapting is the key. (Can you see where I'm going yet?)

Men are much better at this than women, they understand the occasional need for a nip or tuck to change a suit from baggy to 'banging', they understand that well tailored is an easy thing to achieve with fairly minor changes and aren't afraid to ask for this service to be done for them, no matter the original cost of the item as it adds to the style and comfort of the garment.  Although women will discard an item they love if the fit is slightly off, no matter how much of a bargain it is, without considering that there may be options that will significantly improve the garment.

There are so many brands, styles and shapes available to us that I have no doubt you can and will find a brand that fits you like a glove.  When you do it removes all the angst and makes life so easy, but that way leads to ruts.  If you only use one shop, you only see one perspective and immediately limit yourself from experimenting.  It also gives you a slanted view of yourself as you remove your ability to find your own unique and ever changing style.

If you don't have the time or inclination to find a perfect fit, put the time into finding a seamstress or tailor that you can build a relationship with, so that everything you own can be fully bespoke.  It is nowhere near as expensive as you might think it is.

White for Summer, it's madness. Do it anyway

There is a reason that white is a trend that will not die, when it is done right you look chic and cool, effortless and free.  A person, for this is a unisex trend, dressed all in white has a certain cache that can not be denied.  It is a high maintenance trend, in regards to the fact the tailoring has to be exceptional as the fabrics and the colour, tend towards the unforgiving, but there are ways to manage this in order to make it as accessible as any other item of clothing.

This season your White ensemble, should be based in one of two camps either ultra feminine, with layers of floating lace and sheer silk, using fabric to build texture, until the colour is only an impression whilst the detail tells the story and disguises the areas you want ignored.  Your alternative is almost the exact opposite, structural tailoring that is inspired by 1920 Art Deco design, seams you could cut yourself on and shoulders that Atlas would be proud of.  Just don't try and mix the two, a floaty dress with a structured jacket, or vise versa just won't look quite right.

On a more practical level, when it comes to your purchases, either buy cheap and accept the fact it may not look the same after it has been washed or really invest in the item and find an amazing Dry Cleaner, you know you can trust.  It may be worth investing in a key piece on the grounds that, as I say this is a trend that is going nowhere.  If you are naturally pale skinned, opt for necklines further from your face as this will give you enough space to not feel that you are camouflaged.

Now for those of you who like me are 'Spillers', there are days when I manage to look presentable for 2 minutes before I drop coffee down my front or put my sleeve in something unexpected, be careful and buy yourself some industrial stain remover.

Perfect in pastels

I always think they get a bit of a bad rap, yes historically they tend towards the sickly sweet and are worn by women you don't want to be.  However this season pastels have got something going on, particularly towards the icy end of the spectrum.  No longer reserved for the twin-set and poly blend crowd, there are a few items that even got me looking twice.

The key to this trend is the shapes you wear and the way you choose to accessories, in order to avoid blending, which we all know to be the ultimate sin.  By choosing a tailored pastel you have the option to retain your cool and/or throw in a "pop colour" to draw attention.  This is a nice alternative for those of you who I still haven't managed to sell on the idea of "Brights", they tend to be easier colours to wear and feel instantly confident in.  They also give an instant sense of summer cool in the icy shades, so that no one will be accusing you of looking hot under the collar this season.  Avoid that Mumsy feeling by choosing tight silhouettes, that accentuate those 'key assets'.

And please remember that paler colours are not so forgiving of poorly placed underwear, if you don't own nude underwear, now is the time to invest in it.  I know it isn't the most attractive colour to look at but nothing is less attractive than showing the world your pants when you didn't mean to.

Brights: 3 seasons in without a dimmer switch

It started in the AW10/11 resort season with Colour bomb, since then there has been a colour shock, a colour block, a rainbow nation, a tangerine dream, a Sea of  Blue, the Clash, Jewel Tones and now it is Vibrant pink and Orange.  They have appeared in pre and post seasons mini trends and main trends.  I'm talking of course about the bright colours that have been strolling out on Catwalks without a break for 3 seasons, they are beautiful and luxurious and when you find the right one, so easy to wear and yet, people still turn to the shades of grey. 

It is a braver choice, to wear colour.  It can go quite horribly wrong making you look sallow or like a clown that has lost its circus, but when you get it right the pay off is amazing.  Now we are in a delicious situation where people are more used to seeing colour, it is not completely out of the ordinary and as a result even the more timid of us can now make the choice with so much less risk.  Not to mention the fact that by now it must have been proven to you that colour is not a fad that is going anywhere, I would suggest although I have been wrong before the longer these austere times continue the longer the styles we see will be luxe and sumptuous as an offset.  The truth is that you are not the only ones depressed by the news of recession and cut backs, designers are business people too and they know the harder the times, the more attractive their clothes have to be, to attract you.  I think we can all agree they do a fabulous job.  So why not take advantage of it?  The weather is horrid, and things look bleak, so instead of complaining about its lack, why not treat yourself and wear a little sunshine instead.

That dark suit won't seem so constricting if you add a little colour to it.  The easiest way to wear "brights" is, as an accent colour, adding a little glamour and finesse.

A little of what you fancy does you good.

Years ago I read an article, I'm not going to quote it as I'm afraid it is a bit of a distant memory but the basic premise was that, true wants were based on an unfulfilled need within your body or psyche and by allowing yourself the things that you wanted you would be able to distinguish between true wants and a passing fantasy based desire.  The interesting thing was that this article was not just about food and emotional partners but also took clothing as an example.  The idea being that if you want something it is because some part of yourself actually has a need for it.

I love this idea as I am naturally on the self indulgent side (I know, I hide it well!)  I also know that nobody needs more excuses or reasons to spend the money they may not have at the moment.  January is traditionally the hangover month, you had a good time in December and now you have to pay the price, or credit card bill to be specific.  So maybe now is a good time to exercise the self control but use the time to take a step back and look at the things you are naturally attracted to without the pressure of thinking about buying them?  Instead of thinking I like that but I would never wear it and dismissing the whole concept, try to work out why you like it, is it the colour or shape or a particular fabric and file it away for when you are back on the spending train.  I find that most people tend to be more dismissive than they are accepting, finding reasons not to want things, which I understand but if you are constantly drawn to the same type of item there may be a very real reason for it.

I was speaking to my best friend last night and we were discussing her obsessive hunt for a particular item of clothing, namely a pair of grey silk sequinned shorts.  My initial comment was that, nothing good starts with the words, "There was a pair of sequinned shorts..." but I was wrong because they are cute and fun.  So even if it is just that my friend needs a little more fun in her life, they would have served a purpose.  She was drawn to them for a reason, even though it is not something I think she would naturally wear, she had a need and in this case it could be filled by a garment.

The point I am so ineptly dancing around is that if you love something, there is a reason for it and maybe no isn't the first word you should think of.

Knee high to a grasshopper

As I may have mentioned before I do love a knee high boot, but they are one of those items that if you get it right you have a fashion safety net, until the soles fall off.  If you get it wrong, well they can also be used as very attractive door stops.  I happen to know someone not too far away from me who owns 9 pairs of black knee high boots, this is a somewhat recent revelation - I find that my friends do tend to drip feed me their fashion secrets (honestly you'd think I was critical).  Her excuse was that they all have different heel heights and styles, blah, blah-di-blah.  The truth is she only wears 2 of the pairs but the other 7, were experiments on the path to perfection, which is understandable on so many levels.  As shoes are a very tricky purchase.

You have about one more week of good quality sale purchases still to make, so now is the time to set yourself up with this fashion gold, because they are expensive there is no denying that fact.  As a result a discount makes them extra shiny and now that the crowds have ebbed you'll have the elbow room to try on a few pairs to get the right ones for you.

My main words of advice are:-
1.  Please don't forget that all girls look better with ankles, so avoid the grande slouchy ones unless you are whippet thin.
2.  Knee high boots are not attractive if they make your legs look like straws in a glass.
3.  Leather does stretch so if you've got an inch to go on that zip as long as you are prepared to put the work in they'll fit perfectly.  If you aren't prepared to put the work in find a Cobbler with a stretching machine to put the work in for you.
4.  Decide whether you want them most to go over skinny jeans or tights as this will affect which you should buy, and the look you will achieve, I'd recommend the skinny jean option for most people as putting less in a boot is easy.
5.  Be prepared to do the miles, all shoes are uncomfortable to start, the reason your most comfortable shoes are that comfortable is because you wear them the most, so they have formed to your foot.  It's a good tip for all new shoes, commit to wearing them in short bursts in order to get them where they need to be.  Think of it like dating you wouldn't meet a man and immediately book a week away you need to get used to each other first.

The fact is that women in knee high boots get attention, they cause a stir.  Why shouldn't you too?