Wednesday, 11 July 2012

If the suit fits...


Which lets be honest in most stores on the High Street it won't.  Maybe you are one of the lucky few who can put on a relatively cheap suit and make it look like an investment piece, well done!  I'm not jealous, I'm just not that person, partly because of a few slight OCD tendencies but mostly because I fundamentally don't believe that 'good enough' is in anyway good enough for me or my clients.  The good news is that the rules are true for all, the fit is obviously different for all but the way you achieve it is the same.  So the top 5 rules to getting it right....

1.  Jacket length - It never ceases to amaze me how many individuals get this wrong, where your jacket ends is where the 'viewers' attention will be drawn as a result why not draw that attention to the good bits, whatever you consider them to be.  Get it right and you will lose 10lbs and grow at least an inch, get it wrong and you may as well wear the bag the suit came home in.
2.  Defer to the knowledge of others - You will never see yourself clearly in 360 degree technicolour, so why not ask the opinion of someone who can.  Dare I say it someone who spends all day everyday fitting people in suits and may have a better idea of the stock than you ever will.  Or if you find yourself the disappointed owner of a box suit, a tailor who can turn it into something special.
3.  Black is not the only colour - I know all the images are of black suits, but there are other choices you can make.  A navy or grey will look less harsh and offer you far more in the way of Sartorial options.  My word to the wise though is that you must be careful of the fabric as the last thing you need in your life is a suit that looks old and tired before you are finished with it.
4.  Make sure your patterns match up - My personal 'bug bear' is pinstripes where the seam breaks the line. Particularly on the shoulder seam as this is just lazy construction, it's amazing how many times you see this and I'm sorry if you check your seams and it ruins the suit for you.
5.  Each component part must be able to stand alone - A suit is an outfit but you should be able to wear the jacket with jeans and the trousers or skirt alone, in order to maximise it's potential wear.  This depends entirely on fit.  A badly fitted suit jacket when worn with jeans will look like a box, and actually be quite unflattering but the better the fit the more likely the potential that it can become a smart casual addition to your wardrobe as well as a classic work staple.

If nothing else focus on the fit, do not let your suit wear you.

Saturday, 7 July 2012

A little advice from me to you....


Most people think that a personal shopper is a luxury they can't afford, which I do understand but I thought I would suggest 10 things you can afford less than me
  • Spending one day in an uncomfortable suit or shirt 
  • Buying a garment simply for its label 
  • Traipsing from store to store searching for the Golden Goose 
  • Confusing style with fashion 
  • Owning a closet full of forgettable clothes 
  • Confusing value with price 
  • Being "helped" by a salesperson on commission 
  • Sacrificing style, fit, or fabric in tailoring 
  • Being less than well dressed and comfortable
  • Letting yourself believe that you'll get around to things
When it comes to things that are outside our comfort zone or specific area of expertise we all procrastinate, its natural to try and avoid these things.  The fact is that the world we live in is image driven, whether we like it or not, we judge and are judged.  So my question is, why so many people put themselves at a disadvantage by undermining their self esteem?  Confidence is paramount to effective performance in anything we do as humans, feeling uncomfortable or unsure affects you, so if given the opportunity to effect a significant improvement why not take advantage of it?

Putting it in economic terms you are wasting your resources, time and money amongst them.  In the long run it is always significantly cheaper to get things absolutely right the first time.
 
A good style shows no sign of effort. What is worn should seem a happy accident. -- SOMERSET MAUGHAM

The unexpected favourite...

scarf print silk blazer by D&GMiu Miu Glitter-sole suede peep-toe pumpsEtro Ruched printed crepe dressRalph Lauren Collection Leah suede coatOscar de la Renta 24-karat rose gold-plated hammered-disc necklace
There are times when a little something just grabs your attention.  It doesn't fit with the norm and makes you sit up to take notice, even when you want to fight it.  Everything I know about fashion tells me there are rules to follow, everything I know about life tells me the best 'stuff' invariably happens when you look at those rules turn around and rip them in half.  The best clothes I own, are the ones I couldn't walk away from but knew I probably should, there was a more sensible way to spend my money - a more appropriate item that would give me more options on a case by case basis.  However when you love something you think of options, sometimes having to make something work is a lot more productive than following a formula.

It's the shoes that are technically a little too high to be practical, the jacket (insert item as appropriate) that will always need to be at best dry cleaned and at worst can't even have that done by anyone but a specialist, less added value more added unexpected expense, a users tax if you will.  I know its easy to dismiss these pieces, we are all practical grown ups and understand the realities of life but I would rather have one piece that I am genuinely excited to own, than 20 V neck jumpers in assorted colours.